For D&D, wargaming, and tabletop hobbyists who want a custom character STL without learning ZBrush or Blender. Tell Formo what the figure looks like — get a file ready for your slicer.
Most miniature workflows assume you already know how to sculpt or remesh. If you only want one custom hero, monster, or proxy for a campaign, that learning curve is the wrong tool. Formo is built for a different path: describe pose, gear, style, and size in chat, then download a watertight STL you can slice like any other printable file.
That still leaves print craft on your side — layer height, supports, and resin vs FDM. The sections below cover the prompts that matter most for small figures so the file matches how you actually print.
At miniature scale, a thick FDM layer can erase facial planes, belt buckles, and weapon edges. Say the approximate figure height in millimeters and that you need fine surface detail. On the printer, prefer a finer layer height (and a smaller nozzle when you use FDM) than you would for a household bracket. Resin printers resolve small features more easily, but the STL still needs enough modeled relief for the light to catch.
How to spot trouble: in the slicer preview, details that flatten into one or two thick bands, or a face that looks smooth with no nose/eye depth. Ask chat to deepen key features or slightly enlarge the figure before you burn a resin vat or a roll of filament.
Tabletop games care about footprint as much as the sculpt. State the base shape and size your rules or tray use — round diameter, square edge length, or "same as my existing 28 mm round bases" after you measure one. Ask whether the miniature should be fused to the base or printed as a separate peg/slot so you can swap figures.
How to spot trouble: a figure that overhangs the base widely, or a base that will not fit your movement tray. Regenerate with an explicit base size rather than hoping the default looks right on the table.
Dynamic poses look great painted and terrible unsupported. Arms, capes, wings, and long weapons often print cleaner as separate pieces with a pin, socket, or flat glue face. Tell the chat which parts to separate and how you want to join them after printing. A separate base also lets you print the figure horizontal for strength while the base stays flat.
How to spot trouble: huge support forests under outstretched limbs, or a single-body file that will not stand in the orientation you need. Ask for a multi-part download and dry-fit before glue.
A useful miniature prompt names the character type, pose, gear, style (heroic / grim / cartoon), height or scale, base size, and whether you want one piece or splits. Formo validates watertightness before download; you still choose resin vs FDM and the layer settings that keep the detail you asked for.
No. Formo takes a text description of the character or figure and builds a watertight mesh you can download as STL (and often 3MF/STEP). You still open the file in your usual slicer — but you do not sculpt the mesh in digital clay tools.
Small features need thin layers and a fine nozzle (or resin). In the chat, say the target height or scale and that you care about face, armor, or weapon detail. In the slicer, use a smaller layer height than you would for a large bracket — otherwise tiny ridges disappear into a single thick layer.
Yes — tell Formo the base diameter or footprint your ruleset uses (for example a round base size in millimeters) and whether the figure should be attached to that base or printed separately. Measure an existing base from your collection if you are unsure of the exact size.
One piece is simpler if the pose has mild overhangs. Split parts (arms, weapons, wings, or a separate base) help when limbs stick out sideways, when you want different colors without painting everything, or when a tall pose would need heavy supports. Ask the chat to split named parts with clear mating faces or pins.